Ducked out of the rain into Via dei Falegnami 18 and had a sliced Angus steak. This is farm country and beef is big. Good waiter, good steak, not much buzz. A lot of mopey Italian tourists on their phones, and Maria was sniping at her staff again. Wouldn't hurt to keep walking to Caminetto d'Oro at No. 4 (Fred Plotkin mentions it in his definitive "Italy for the Gourmet Traveler"). I would have done so, but it was closed for ... I dunno, Easter Tuesday? Nobody is better at grifting a day off than the Italians. I kid!
Great atmosphere, just a 30-minute walk from the Pratello, and hey, it's quality Serie A football. Fans of the visiting team are kept in a literal cage for their protection. Vendors in the city can be found here (enter "Emilia Romagna" as your region). I got my ticket at L'Occitane Voyages at Via Della Lame 2. Bring your passport. Your name is printed on your ticket so you'll also need some kind of identification at the stadium. The Rosso e Blu fell behind, then boat-raced Empoli in the second half, with all four goals coming right in front of me. On the way home, every scooter on Via Costa tooted its horn.
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