Ducked out of the rain into Via dei Falegnami 18 and had a sliced Angus steak. This is farm country and beef is big. Good waiter, good steak, not much buzz. A lot of mopey Italian tourists on their phones, and Maria was sniping at her staff again. Wouldn't hurt to keep walking to Caminetto d'Oro at No. 4 (Fred Plotkin mentions it in his definitive "Italy for the Gourmet Traveler"). I would have done so, but it was closed for ... I dunno, Easter Tuesday? Nobody is better at grifting a day off than the Italians. I kid!
Mostly playful and juvenile, without the polish and ambition of Porto, yet still one senses that important urban psychodramas are being played out on the ochre walls of Bologna. A mask falls away from a modern-day Madonna living two lives. Unlock your brain and start thinking for yourself, urges a hollow, floating head on Via Manzoni, his eyes, mouth and skull open, providing a kind of hieroglyphic blueprint for doing so. Stickmen cops shoot at one another because ... well, there's a backstory there surely. The impulsive brushstrokes of the neighborhood tribalist are found here in great numbers of course. As in Amsterdam, Brussels and almost every major Western city, they become almost invisible after a couple of days. More accomplished works can be found on the rolling shutters shopkeepers pull down at night, many on the city's west side. A marimba-playing boar by Andrea D'Ascanio, aka Sardomuto. He's from Sardinia. The next four are by Aless...
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